![]() Dash means no signal / no picture.Ĭolumn E: Signal strength shown on Samsung TV under situation 2. RF-out from 150PVR (in passthrough mode) going to Samsung TV:Ĭolumn D: Signal strength shown on 150PVR under situation 2. Situation 2: Antenna line connected directly to RF-in on 150PVR unit. ![]() Given this situation, then:Ĭolumn B: Signal strength shown on Samsung TV.Ĭolumn C: Signal strength shown on 150PVR. Situation 1: Antenna line connected to splitter, with splitter output going to TV and 150PVR. (No rotor is used in these tests - the antenna was stationary).Ĭolumn A: TV channel (virtual, not necessarily RF) The table below lists the signal strength of 6 channels that both the TV and 150PVR display under several situations. Front of box has "PVR/A72" in large print, printed inside a gold circle. Serial or model number on back of box: HW-150PVR140907405V3. ![]() Passive splitter - model BPR-2750.Ģ) Chimney-mounted antenna (yagi type) with about 20 feet of quad-shield RG-6 coax (75 ohm impedence) running directly into the house - no connections or splices.ģ) Samsung LN22A330 22" TV (my reference for what channels are or should be available).Ĥ) Ordinary tube-type TV (Sony) which is used to view video signal from HW150 box via composite video output.ĥ) HomeWorx HW-150PVR. First, I'll begin by explaining what I have:ġ) Coax splitter (1 in, 2 out). Regarding this 150PVR unit, I've done more testing and have found something interesting. So I know when a cable is bad, and what an antenna rotor does. Just to give some background - I've had about 30 years of experience setting up TV antennas, cables and amplifiers (as a homeowner and hobbiest - not as a job).
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